PIETRASANTA THE LITTLE ATHENS

Pietrasanta is a charming town unlike any other: in its compact historic center you’ll find precious works of contemporary art side by side with medieval and modern masterpieces. With this itinerary we trace its foundation in 1255 and its Renaissance flourishing, when Michelangelo Buonarroti stayed here at the request of Pope Leo X. Following in the footsteps of the great Michelangelo, we encounter major works from the 15th to the 20th century: from Donato Benti to Matteo Rossellino, Leone Tommasi, and on to the surrealist Folon, Igor Mitoraj, Botero, Niki de Saint Phalle, and many more. A wonderful discovery!

The 13th–14th-century Cathedral of San Martino, in Romanesque-Gothic style, bears on its façade reliefs by Donato Benti and houses a treasure of masterpieces within. The pulpit staircase is a rare marvel, carved from a single block of marble in the 16th century and attributed to Andrea Baratta. To the right of the cathedral stands a distinctive bell tower: quadrangular on the outside, while inside a circular staircase is visible. It is a feat of remarkable architectural engineering which, according to some, was executed by Michelangelo Buonarroti during his stay in Pietrasanta in 1520.

The Church of Sant’Agostino (14th c.), no longer used for worship, now hosts art exhibitions. In Romanesque style, its façade features a splendid bronze “Annunciation” by Igor Mitoraj (2013). The adjoining cloister houses the Museum of Bozzetti, unique in the world, where you can follow the development of art from the early 20th century to the present. Here you’ll find works by artists such as Jean-Michel Folon, Ferdinando Botero, Elaine Blumenfeld, Franco Adami, Pietro Cascella, Anna Chromy, Jo Pomodoro, Niki de Saint Phalle, Marcello Tommasi, and Vincenzo Santini.

In the 14th-century Church of the Misericordia, among works by Jacopo della Quercia and Luigi Ademollo, we admire Ferdinando Botero’s frescoes depicting “The Gate of Hell” and “The Gate of Paradise.” The former shows a great devil surrounded by little devils torturing the damned emerging from tongues of fire, including Hitler. On the opposite wall, the Garden of Eden is painted, crowned by the Madonna and Child with angels; among the figures one recognizes Mother Teresa of Calcutta. A unique style set within a truly one-of-a-kind setting.